Vogue V8815

Fabric: Stretch rayon/elastane crepe from Joel and Son Fabrics, London.

Fitting Notes:
I continue to sew the fabric I purchased last year in London.

This top started out as Vogue’s classic pattern, V8815. The pattern features a jewel neckline, waist darts, peplum and a variety of set-in sleeve lengths. I made my usual alterations to the pattern: shortened the armscye, high round back, forward shoulder, full bust adjustment (FBA) and sway back alteration. I migrated the dart formed during the FBA to my waist, where I intended to create a bunch of geometric overlapping pleats/darts vaguely inspired by the Madeline knit top from StyleArc. As sometimes happens, the fabric had other ideas.

Construction Notes:
This deadstock remnant caught my eye with its beautiful colors and liquid drape when I visited Joel and Son Fabrics in London last fall. I didn’t have enough fabric for sleeves, so I extended the shoulder, which drapes to create a cap sleeve. The fabric’s stretch took me a bit by surprise; it gives the fabric “spring” which really didn’t work with pleats or darts. Instead of fighting with the fabric, I decided to gather it into the peplum.

The elastane (Lycra) in the fabric made it a bit challenging to sew. I struggled to find the right combination of thread, needle and stitch. In the end, I used stretch needles with Seraflex thread and a straight stitch. I hand understitched the peplum to reinforce the crisp edge. I also hand hemmed the sleeve and replaced the pattern’s faced neckline with a self-bias binding. I really love this blouse, not only for the compliments I get, but also because I remember my lovely trip each time I wear it!